Livin' La Vida Vintage

Monday, October 13, 2014

Vintage Chicago, Part 2

Vintage Chicago, Part 2
After a light dinner and a few glasses of red, Madge was raring to go. Yesterday had been a mad dash through the Cats Pajamas Vintage show in Elgin, see part 1, and this morning, gal pal Mary was taking Madge on a tour of her favorite vintage haunt – The Antique and Resale Shoppe, a modest name for an amazing shop situated in the northwest corner of Chicago.

Vintage Chicago, Part 2

Madge had to admit she was unimpressed as we drove up to the nondescript strip center. But once the door opened, Holy Cow!  The shop bills itself as the 8th wonder of the world, with a sign claiming 15,000 square feet of vintage. But that’s a typo because it’s actually measured in cubic feet, stuffed floor to ceiling with shelves, display cases and racks, it’s 360 degrees vintage.

vintage chicago, part 2

As you first walk in there is a lovely selection of vintage linens, then once around the corner you see literally thousands of pieces of jewelry, some not particularly old, but plenty of true vintage pieces as well.  Winding her way through the display cases, Madge was amazed that every little piece was marked with a stock number and a price.  What at first looked haphazard was in fact meticulously curated.
vintage chicago, part 2
Tower O’ Jewelry



Farther in, loads of home goods including barware, dishes and even a fascinating selection of historic photos. But we were on the prowl for fashion and that ARS has in mass quantities, including dresses, belts and shoes.  From the 20s to the 80s, You name it they’ve got it.

vintage chicago, part 2

Finally, in the back of the shop, the Holy Grail – hats.  Lots and lots of hats.  Mary who is writing not one, but two books on Chicago milliners is always on the look out for obscure local labels and this shop doesn’t disappoint.  Of course Madge snagged one right from under Mary’s nose and bought it before she saw it.  Hey, it’s a jungle out here.
vintage chicago, part 2

Co-owner Susanne and the gang really get into showing of their wares.  There are no minimalists here.  Everyone is decked out head to toe in fabulous vintage.
vintage chicago, part 2
Suzanne and friend posing with all of those hats.


Even the VP of customer relations, a lovely French poodle, gets in on the act. And the best part of all?  Their prices.  Their motto must be, why buy one item when you can afford to buy twelve!

Check out this fun video with both Susanne, and co-owner Jules showing off the place to a local news anchor.  A comment from one of their regulars sums up this shop.  She comes to Antique and Resale for “their special kind of retail therapy”.

After the shopping extravaganza it was time to do my other favorite thing in Chicago – eat.   Mary took me to one of her favorite lunch spots, Portillo’s, a local chain famous for their Chicago dogs where yet another mindboggling array was on display, only this time it was food instead of vintage.

Back on the road, Madge gasped at an amazing site and implored Mary to stop.  There it was, the Leaning Tower of YMCA.

vintage chicago, part 2
Leaning Tower YMCA, Niles IL

Oh yes.  A half-size replica of the famous Pisa Tower built in 1934 by industrialist Robert Ilg as part of a recreation park for employees of his company, Ilg Hot Air Electric Ventilating Company of Chicago.  Is that a fabulous company name or what?  Originally serving as a water tower for the park’s pools, the tower became marooned when Ilg family members donated most of the land to the YMCA.  Sadly this wonderful monument to kitsch has seen better days.  Let’s hope the city of Niles can get their act together and restore this tower to its former glory.

Vintage chicago, part 2

After this ersatz Italian extravaganza it was on to Mary’s house to view her collection of hats by Bes Bens and Raymond Hudd.  As I mentioned, Mary is writing two books on Chicago Millinery history. One is on the history of Chicago milliners, including her favorite hat designer, Bes-Ben. Started by Benjamin Greenfield and his sister Bessie in 1919, here is Mary’s Bes-Ben entry in the book Hatatorium:  An Essential Guide for Hat Collectors (buy this book!):
“When Bessie left the business he consolidated to one shop on Michigan Avenue. He was famous for his whimsical hats including a 1941 Dalmatian hat. He became known as ‘Chicago’s Mad Hatter’ in 1940s and 1950s. Every summer Bes-Ben held its famous midnight sale, in which the store cleared its last season’s inventory at prices as low as $5, and tossed the unsold inventory to be grabbed up by hat lovers. The madhouse these sales created was notorious, with press photographs showing throngs of eager shoppers pressed against each other to grab the hats. Injuries ensued. Customers included Elizabeth Taylor, Judy Garland, Lucille Ball, and Marlene Dietrich.”

The shop closed in the 1960s and Benjamin Greenfield later became a philanthropist, endowing an exhibition wing at the Chicago History Museum.

As you can see, Mary’s Bes-Ben collection did not disappoint:
vintage chicago, part 2

Mary’s other great Chicago love is Raymond Hudd, whose work is covered in her second book. Hudd’s hat designs were even more fanciful than Bes-Bens. Born Raymond Huddlestun on the family farm in Michigan, he moved to Chicago in 1945.  Hudd began his career as a window dresser opening his first hat shop in 1950. As self-taught milliner he wasn’t shy about creating hats with unusual materials such as dead tree branches.  In a short documentary about his life, “In Everything I Saw a Hat” by Laurie Kennard, Hudd makes his design philosophy clear.  “Don’t take me for a walk in the woods because I’ll take dead branches from trees and put birds’ nests in them, and it’s just something that goes together. In everything I saw a hat.”

His trademark was a silk violet flower, often with a rhinestone, sewn into the interior of each hat, a loving tribute to his mother. Hudd dressed most of the fashionable ladies of Chicago in the 1950s and 60s and was still designing well into the 1980s when only the most ardent fans were still wearing hats.  Phyllis Diller was one of his major customers and had over 500 Hudds.

Vintage Chicago, part 2
The Shoe Hat and Fried Eggs Hat both by Raymond Hudd

Mary was lucky to get to know this unique designer before his death at age 86 in 2011.  She was even tasked with finding homes for many of his pieces when the Chicago History Museum decided to deaccession part of their collection of Raymond Hudd.  Of course Mary and her Hudd posse made sure each amazing hat found a new home, including Madge’s!

Vintage Chicago, part 2
Madge’s New Hat – the space age Air

After a weekend of total hat nirvana and figuring out how on earth to get her Hudd space age creation home, Madge sadly bid adieu to her Chicago mad hatter friends and also to one of her favorite cities.   But first – breakfast!

vintage chicago, part 2
Madge & Mary in her incredible Hudd Bagel Hat

See you next time . . .

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Livin’ La Vida Vintage Chicago Style

The Weather Channel reported It was 8° in Chicago with record amounts of ice on Lake Michigan.  Of course that meant it was an excellent time to visit.
Livin La Vida VintageIt had been over a year since Madge’s  24-hour Chicago whirlwind for National Hat Day last winter.  Now there was another fun reason to go – the Cat’s Pajamas vintage show in Elgin, via Chi town.  Since this was her first time at the show Madge wisely enlisted a couple of cagey veterans, gal pals Iris and Lorraine, to show her the ropes.
Livin La Vida Vintage Chicago Style
Sweet Lorraine
It was torture waiting the hour before the show opened, but we did ogle what we could see from the line.  Lorraine was a big hit in her fetching ensemble. Finally the gates opened and the stampede began. After living in the south so long, Madge was eager to dump her coat and proceeded to wander off to find the rumored coat check. Rookie mistake. While she wasted a precious 20 minutes, Iris and Lorraine were off and running. They didn’t need to dump no stinking coat. Time to woman up, Madge!
After that false start, Madge hit her stride. Everyone has their own way of working shows.  This gal likes to give it the once over, taking a quick look at the whole place then back tracking to inspect her favorite vendors. This show was the bomb. The quality and variety of vintage was spectacular. Madge isn’t used to seeing this much top notch apparel in one place. Every period was represented, from authentic Victorian to Seventies psychedelic.
Here’s a rundown on some of Madge’s favorites.
Madge was agog at the wonderful display of brooches at Miss Kitty’s Litter box. Love the wicker bag, jean jacket and bust she used to display her cool collection of brooches and buttons. 
livin la vida vintage chicago style
Kitty was also showing a fabulous collection of evening bags from the 20s to the 50s. Catch that fun pink poodle lamp in the corner?
Livin La Vida Vintage Chicago Style






Next up was Musser’s Atomic Antiques with hats and bags galore. Madge has a real weakness for 60s linen bucket handbags and she fell hard for this jeweled, travel motif one. Livin La Vida Vintage Chicago StyleWhat could be better than Paris, London and Rome in rhinestones? Cindy Musser also had some magnificent hats, as you can see. That certain orange-feathered number in the middle, a la Phyllis Diller, now has a new home in Atlanta.Livin La Vida Vintage Chicago Style







NOV had a sweet collection of vintage wedding cake toppers from the 50s and 60s.  Owner Adrienne Baskin also fashions mirrored trays with frames of broken vintage jewelry.  Madge was very envious since she and her glue gun are not on speaking terms.  Anyway, the effect of the toppers placed on the livin la vida vintage chicago styletrays was stunning and would be a great idea for wedding decorations.

In a complete change of pace NOV also displayed dramatic vintage tribal necklaces.
Livin La Vida Vintage Chicago Style





Another of Madge’s weaknesses is vintage silk scarves and Swell Stuff had a fab collection, also artfully displayed on drying racks. 
livin la vida vintage chicago style
livin la vida vintage chicago style
Love this 50s purse

Further down the row, a brilliant collection of 60s & 70s enamel flower brooches stopped Madge dead in her tracks. How much does Madge love enamel flowers? Let her count the ways. These pieces are so of the era, and yet still so fresh. With all the bright colors it is impossible to be in a funklivin la vida vintage chicago stylewearing one of these beauties. Karen Renfrow, of MallGirl1954had one of the best collections seen to date, and great prices to boot. Madge was so enraptured she almost missed this vintage hard-sided purse from the 50s, in beautiful tones of mottled gray.
Madge also spied an unusual display of old photos at MallGirl in the style of  large campaign buttons, only with couples instead of politicians. Karen explained it was a collection of wedding mementos that were popular in the 20s and 30s. Small hand mirrors with a wedding photo on the reverse.  Another great idea for today’s brides.
livin la vida vintage chicago style

One of the Madge’s favorite clothing vendors was Sarah Emrick of Imaginary Girl vintage. This beautiful orange day dress and jacket was impeccable and in Madge’s favorite color.  Here’s Sarah, the Imaginary Girl,  herself posing in her delightful vintage ensemble.
livin la vida vintage chicago style
livin la vida vintage chicago style







This artful combination of hatboxes at Independence Vintage wins Madge’s Best Display award. Lucite purses and shoes stacked like a wedding cake with the topper:  a black and pink Lucite purse with a keyboard lid, decorated with musical notes on the sides. Complete with glittery candelabra this is a purse Liberace would be proud to carry.
livin la vida vintage chicago style
Love that Chas Stevens Co., Chicago, Hatbox.

Museum quality was the emphasis at Somewhere in Time from LaGrange Park, Illinois, Jo Addie’s display of vintage gowns and dresses took Madge’s breath away. Take a look at this line up. The rust velvet dress in the middle is a gorgeous authentic 20s flapper gown with flawless details.
livin la vida vintage chicago style

 Two contemporary faves were this knit St. John dress from the 70s, and a Mary McFadden from the 80s, reveling in her trademark Fortuny-style pleating.
livin la vida vintage chicago style
Madge fell hard for this jewelry travel case, which at first glance is just a pretty wooden box, but on opening an elaborate fitted case, lined with deep emerald velvet and silk. Madge thought for sure some fancy Park Avenue dame must have owned it, but Jo revealed that it had come from a small town in Tennessee. Boy if that box could talk.
livin la vida vintage chicago style
If Madge only had the jewels, sigh.








Jo saved the best for last. A huge collection of Art Nouveau Czech glass jewelry from the 1920s, never worn. Discovered in a locked warehouse, Czech glass is highly collectible, and some of the colors in her display, especially the blues and greens, were ones Madge had never seen before. Imagine finding a cache of “brand new” jewelry from the 1920s.

Czech glass





Here’s Jo posing with just a small part of her dazzling collection.  
Livin La vida vintage chicago style









After that extravaganza, Linsday from Frocks &  Frills let Madge sit down to decompress with another hat fix. Ah, just what the doctor ordered.
Livin la vida vintage chicago style






The best vendors at any show are the ones eager to chat with you about their collections. In addition to everyone mentioned, who carefully explained their selections, another great vintage seller was Suzanne Snow of Susie’s.  Madge bought several pieces of jewelry from her and was in awe of some very impressive fashion prints.  Susie explained that they were porchoir art prints. These illustrations, from French fashion magazines of the 20s and 30s , were made with layers of stenciled color, a meticulous process resulting in a type of print that is like no other. Suzanne finds these in France and then showcases them in vintage frames. Delightful!
Livin La Vida Vintage Chicago Style
Pochoir Prints

Livin La Vida Vintage Chicago Style
Here’s Suzanne and husband with some of their prized prints.








Madge finally pooped out about three hours later and reconnoitered with Lorraine and Iris at the snack bar to check out each other’s loot. Iris, as usual, found some wonderful hats.  Livin La Vida VintageLorraine found yet another coat.  

And Madge? Well in addition to buying some great hats for the shop and a little jewelry for herself, she scored this marvelous 1960s full-length ivory mohair coat by Lucie Ann of Beverly Hills, a designer of lingerie and lounge wear in the 50s-70s.  Now she just needs to get Mr. Madge to take her out on the town!

Livin La Vida Vintage Chicago style
Lucie Ann designed all of Eva Gabor’s negligee for “Green Acres”
Check out the information on the Cat’s Pajamas vintage shows in Elgin.   Will I see you at the next one in September?somewhere 03
Love and Hats
Next up: more vintage Chicago with a little Pisa, Italy thrown in.


Information on the highlighted vintage dealers:
Frocks & Frills, 230 S. Hale St., Wheaton IL  60187, 630 221-9400
Imaginary Girl, on Etsy at Imaginary.etsy.com & imaginaryhomevintage.etsy.com
Independence Vintage, on Etsy at IndependenceVintage.etsy.com
MallGirl1954, by Appointment at 1741 W. Gregory St. Chicago, IL,  on eBay at: mallgirl1954
Miss Kitty’s Litter Box, www.misskittyslitterbox.com, facebook.com/misskittyslitterbox
Musser’s Atomic Antiques, Winnebago, IL, cmusser@t6b.com
NOV, www.shopnov.com
Somewhere in Time www.somewhereintime/tv/jewelry.html
Susie’s, susiesnow@comcast.net, 847-7157 on eBay at:  Susiesnow
Swell Stuff, evieforstadt@yahoo.com